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clamping dropper post in work stand

Dropper Post Reviews #1 OneUp Components Dropper Seatpost V2. Or know of someone who did? The dropper has 5mm of setback. Scratches will then travel back and forth through the seals damaging them and allowing dirt to enter the post's internals. Whilst we try to ensure all prices, product descriptions and availability are correct we cannot be held responsible for errors or omissions, as Giant reserves the right to make changes to information regarding their products at any time without notice, including with respect to prices, specifications, equipment, models, colors, and materials. Secondly, dropper seatposts are designed to take weight from sitting, not in the opposite direction. I just watched this today and it put me at ease. If you are supporting the bike by the gold stanchion, you can damage the internal components. It's a Park tool stand and I try to clamp it near the top where the seat holder clamp is, how bad is it for the sanctions. Is it safe to clamp them in the stand? Hi Another dumb question, where do you do attach your TL to your bike stand. Compress the dropper fully. There's not a perfect answer. I’ve been clamping my bikes like this for years. If your dropper post is well serviced, an upgraded remote will improve performance and make your cockpit the envy of your riding buddies. If you insisted I do it that way I would charge you a $25 service charge for the extra work involved. Works if you only need a convenient resting spot. I asked them "are you supposed to clamp it like that?" The main problem with clamping a dropper post by its retractable part in a repair stand: if the claw is dirty it may scratch the moving part of the post. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser. SPD pedals are an absolute menace to the well-being of the world, and ought be banned immediately. Just wondering what's the go? You can choose the travel or range from 0 mm to 150 mm. $99) has a clamp that can attach to the seat post or top tube, making it a versatile option. Making **** harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder. Then release seat clamp QR and raise the post until there’s enough seat post (below the collar) showing to clamp in the stand. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. Being a few years old, the frame and seatpost are perfectly round and non-aero. Take a tool stand into the backyard while cutting planks for a new patio. The post is cable actuated with the cable clamped at the lever end. Personally, I don't like the idea of using a clamp on the stanchions of the seat post. The "substitute a standard post" is a good idea,but not really practical.If it's a external cable, just pull the post up enough to clamp on the lower post. I've got a Park PCS-10 repair stand, and just acquired my first carbon bike. Quote: Use your old seat post. Last,but not least,customer support is excellent. And i would not clamp my dropper due to the lateral force already mentioned, I hang my bike by the seat rails where they meet the seat post (not using the stand clamp) with the dropper (LEV external) fully extended. This is the drop post good enough to be called a Thomson Elite. I clamp right at the seal head and seatpost clamp. You can also position the single hook around the seat post itself if the seat clamp is compromised. The one thing I will NEVER do is clamp it or hang it by the seat while the post is in ANYWAY compressed. Bottom line, if you raise your dropper to the top of the travel and clamp like a normal human, your post will be fine, (unless its a reverb). if you're paranoid about it, wrap a clean rag around your post before you clamp it. Again our insider engineers at BikeYoke, KS & 9point8 gave us the full lowdown on the maintenance that a dropper post requires. Many of us use a repair stand for wrenching our bikes. In a work stand, it is possible to crush the outer tube when clamping pressure is applied. Pads on the clamp might not scratch, but any grit or dirt between them and the post could be problematic. Then release seat clamp QR and raise the post until there’s enough seat post (below the collar) showing to clamp in the stand. Doesn't leave a mark and yes, I have old seat-posts in a basket. In a work stand, it is possible to crush the outer tube when clamping pressure is applied. TABLETOP OR STAND-ALONE - Usable folded up atop existing work table or as a 36-inch tall free-standing welding station. What you need to do to keep a dropper sliding smoothly. Seems like a bad idea but it's the only place I can realistically clamp it. Where do you live? I'm more disturbed by the fact that the drive side isn't facing out. I was all set to push the button and order a Park work stand when I suddenly wondered how to use it. You can find this stamped on your old post or on the tech page of your bike's manufacturer's website. Reasons to Buy: So, I am not totally convinced it is safe to clamp it on the stanchion and not sure if the bike mechanics are correct on this one. Even with the 5 legs the work stand has, if it is off balance it will tumble. Your dropper post can easily handle the clamping force plus the … the real benefit as @saynotodougs mentioned is the leverage you can get on the bike along with the stability of the bike as you make adjustments. A good solid work stand at a reasonable price. If you do, it should be on the lower part of the post and not the stanchion. What's your solution? Some of your objections are silly to be honest. as specified, these work stands are really meant for team mechanics. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. That would be a giant PIA if I had to do that as a shop mechanic for every bike with a dropper and is unnecessary overkill. Clean the post well and use a clean rag and should be OK. My seatpost clamp and seal head of the post are very close in size. Weight is not the issue, scratches are. The store will not work correctly in the case when cookies are disabled. So long as the dropper is all the way up, and the clamp jaws are clean, you won't hurt it. Overall weight is 592 grams including remote lever, housing, and cable. Scratches will then travel back and forth through the seals damaging them and allowing dirt to enter the post's internals. Will the remote be compatible with my dropper post? I saw someones posting on the command post thread that had this same problem and Specialized ended up replacing most of his post for a bit over $100. I've had a number of droppers in my workstand and never had an issue. If you have to do so, do it lightly. Make sure that all pressure is released before moving on to the next step. {gasp}. Your bike's frame must have internal dropper post routing for seamless compatibility with this dropper seatpost. Those with a dropper post, be it Giant, Rock shox, Fox etc, do you put them in a work stand like a normal seat post? You can also position the single hook around the seat post itself if the seat clamp is compromised. My name is George. It's a bad idea, but what to do since most have droppers. these work stands are fantastic if you’re working on identical bikes all day (more specifically road bikes). If you are supporting the bike by the gold stanchion, you can damage the internal components. The Covert Dropper seat post set the standard for dropper posts… it’s now available in all black. All the dropper post remotes in this group test feature a cable clamp that does not rely on the fixed cable-end found on gear cables. that would be a giant PIA if I had to do that as a shop mechanic for every bike with a dropper and is unnecessary overkill. I've used a clean rag on the sanctions before but it's not something I want to risk. Perfect for installing dropper seat posts while the bike is in the work stand. What's your solution? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ix_e6LWvap0, VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter, Suite 901, Toronto, Ontario, M5V 2H1, Canada. The bleed screw is the M3 screw that is farthest from the blind hole in the Sealhead. Most of these stands hold bikes by clamping the seat post. This time a bunch of the pawls on the collate that hold the post in place broke off. JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. If the seat post can't handle this then there is no way it's going to support my fat ass on a ride. I clamp mine the ugly way where all the weight of the bike is leveraging against the post. I use the work stand clamp only when absolutely necessary. Otherwise I totally agree- seat post clamp ten times out of ten. Many internal-routing posts also have quick-release cable fasteners at the base of the post. Now you can't. Back in the day you just clamped your bike into a workstand by the seat post. Make sure you fully extend your dropper post. My Jekyll has an internally routed dropper, currently a Lev but soon to be a Reverb. That's not a good option if you don't have wiggle room in your cable to remove your dropper post. Remove the screw from the Sealhead with a 1.5mm hex wrench.

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